Postcards from Cebu

After being lost at sea during a hurricane off the island of Palawan, an American actress completes the filming of a controversial movie, then takes a breather in Cebu. Here is a first-person account of what she calls ‘the experience of a lifetime.’

By Linda Wang

As a New Yorker, I thought nothing could shock me anymore... until my work as a film actress took me to Cebu, Philippines where I had the experience of a lifetime. We were filming “Birds of Passage” with Stacy Keach and French actress Charlotte de Turckheim. The Chinese government banned the filming of this project in China due to the “One Child Policy” story line. The film later took place in the Philippines. I was cast as Fu, a pregnant Chinese woman who refused to get an abortion and escaped from her husband and family in China in order to keep her baby girl.

For over three and a half months on location I was in Cebu, Philippines working on this project.

Working on this project for me was an experience of a life time. I have learned so much from this project not only as an actor but also as a human being. That statement comes from my heart and soul. In the three and a half months that I was in the Philippines, I encountered situations that surprised and shocked me. The experience was truly memorable and I will never forget it.

One incident in particular that has stuck with me was actually being lost at sea on a huge cargo ship with the cast and crew during a full-blown hurricane off the Palawan Islands, something that wasn’t actually in the script.

I can still recall those three particular days and nights. It was very tense among members of the French and American crews and the Filipino film crew and Filipino sailors on the ship had just been involved in a fist fight over some controlling rights issues on the ship. On top of all that, the weather had been 110 F for the last couple of days, so everyone including myself on the ship was not in the greatest of moods.

We were all looking forward to sailing to the Palawan Islands, which we had been told was breathtaking. After a day of pouring rain at sea, we realized we were near the center of the hurricane. To our dismay, the Director still insisted on filming despite storm in order to capture scenes for the film. It was only when one member of the Filipino crew broke his leg while filming during in the storm did the director finally call it a day.

Later that evening the captain of the ship announced that we were lost at sea and the radio transmitter somehow wasn’t working so they were unable to signal out for help. The announcement resulted in sheer panic. I remember people were running back and forth with worried expressions on their faces. All the furniture in my tiny room like beds, chairs and large tables were swinging wildly from one end of the room to the other. Water was pouring through the cracks in the windows and doors. Rats and bugs were swimming on the bottom of the floor under my bed.

The constant rocking and swinging motion of the ship made me sick to my stomach and couldn't help but throw up until there was only acid-like fluid coming out of my mouth. A Filipino woman working on the ship to whom I had become quite close with was crying hysterically and screaming non stop for her mother. I took her along with some of the crew members and proceeded towards the lower deck of the ship. Then I discovered there was a small fire near the laundry room. I started to scream “Fire!” Four crew members doused the fire immediately. Huddling in a circle on the floor near the large dining area, we all held hands, closed our eyes and prayed silently to calm our nerves, chanting to whatever God we believed in because we all feared for our lives.

Twenty-four hours later, we eventually sailed away from the eye of the storm towards safety and we all realized how lucky we were.

I traveled extensively while I was in Cebu and everywhere I went, the people were very nice to me. They were helpful and kind. I remember misplacing my purse on the Cebu Ferry next to a young boy and his mother. The mother and I were discussing about where to go from the ferry on to my next destination. As I was about to get off the ferry with my companion, the little boy chased after me through the crowd and grabbed my skirt Then he handed me my purse.

I was completely taken by surprise. I didn't even know my purse was missing! I then checked my stuff inside the purse. Everything, including my American passport was still inside. I took out some money and handed it to the young boy as my way of saying “Salamat!” If you are from a city environment like myself, you ultimately will understand how rare and beautiful that incident was.

Everything in Cebu and the Philippines was a novelty to me. The only problem I encountered and which I am still deeply outraged about was having to witness foreigners picking up girls and boys who didn’t look more then 14 years of age. I was totally disgusted by it. At night in a street full of beer houses, night clubs and restaurants, they were haggling in English openly in front of me. You must have read about these social issues in the papers or watched programs about it on TV, but when you actually see it for yourself, it really just blows you away. We all know and understand that children are our future and that child prostitution in particular is certainly a terrible social issue. I sincerely wish and hope governments and countries like the Philippines can do something to resolve it.

While in Cebu, I visited the “Magellan's Cross” which was named after Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese explorer who came to Cebu in the early 1500s. I walked across the street to the Sto. Ni–o Basilica which I learned from a parishioner used to be the ONLY Catholic Basilica in East Asia. That first night, I checked in at the Centrepoint hotel and enjoyed their live local bands as I danced the night away.

The following day I went to the Spanish Fort San Pedro which now is the Philippine National Museum regional office. Then I visited Lapu-lapu shrine at Punta Enga–o which was where the Battle of Mactan took place. I also enjoyed strolling along the Carbon Market which carried a variety of fresh vegetables and delicious fruits.

I just fell in love with the freshly squeezed mango and papaya drinks at the market. The only problem was I had to go to the bathroom every half an hour or so because I drank so much of it. At night fall, I visited the Waterfront Hotel andhad a lovely dinner there. I also played at the casino and enjoyed a glass of Chardonnay in the beautiful piano bar. We actually filmed in this grand hotel some of the scenes for Birds of Passage and I was told by the waiter there that the Waterfront Hotel is one of the finest hotels with in Cebu.

Another day I visited the Taoist Temple and and viewedthe entire city on top of the hill. It was kind of neat! That night, I rented a cab and went to a place called “The Top.” Since I wasn’t wearing my contact lenses due to eye irritation, I actually couldn't see anything at the bottom except thousands of tiny glowing lights from the buildings and houses below the mountain and it sure was pretty. I spent two days sunbathing and snorkeling at the Seaquest Bohol Diving Center in Bohol which was so much fun.

I also stayed at the Maribago Bluewaters Resort and had lots of fun using their banana boat and jet skiing near the beach front. I also sampled the different types of seafood dishes at their famous fish restaurant and tried the Lapu-lapu fish dish which was very delicious. The resort was getting so crowded with tourists that I checked out after three days and moved to the larger Shangri-La Mactan hotel which had a great pool and offered a fine dining experience. Later, I traveled north and stayed three days at the Cebu Club Pacific which was famous for its so-called nude beaches. I actually didn't encounter any nude sunbather until I visited the islands out side Cebu City.

My favorite places to shop in Cebu City were Abacus mall, Rustan's department store, Rivergate mall, and Ayala Center. The Ayala center carries the best selections of dried preserved Mango slices which to this very day I am still addicted to.

But my all-time favorite had to be SM City Cebu. This huge modern mall was beautifully designed with lots of food concessions and fine boutiques. If you love shopping, then this is the place to be. I was there almost each and every morning during the Cebu filming, having my cup of cappuccino and chatting with the local merchants. Plus, I maxed-out one of my credit cards at SM City due to uncontrollable shopping sprees!

Outside Cebu City, I visited places like the Panglao Island and viewed the Hinagdanan Cave. The cave is located deep below the earth and I felt this natural cool air circulating within the underground pond. I also walked The Inang-angan stairs which was very spectacular and toured The Baclayon Church.

The next day, I hopped on a jeepney and went to the smoky Mag-aso falls in the town of Antequera. The jeepney ride was very exciting for me but it got so crowded with people that I felt like I was trapped in a sardine can. The experience was similar to being in a subway car during rush hour in New York City.

I also took a small motor boat ride along the river bank near the Mag-aso falls. Two young Filipino guys who were operating the tiny motor boat actually took a swim with my companion and me near the river side.

I also had the chance to feed the smallest monkey in the world with huge Asian flying cockroaches. I was grossed out when one of the cockroaches escaped from the jar and flew on top of my head, getting entangled in my hair. I was told later by the owner of the place to hold a burning cigarette butt to prevent the tiny monkeys from jumping on top of me since it was an open cage feeding. The animals had huge eyes and amazingly looked more like bats then monkeys.

I had my first traditional Cebuano breakfast there. The chocolate rice paste tasted bitter but it was interesting to watch the man mixing and preparing it. I also tried to learn how to ride a motor car near that place, but unfortunately due to lack of skills on my part, I fell into a smelly garbage pile and was subsequently unable to go anywhere else that day without people staring and covering their noses as I passed by.

For over a week I went snorkeling and did other fun water activities at an unknown tiny island beach front owned by a German named Hans. A few tourists were sun bathing in the nude and I was attacked by a “killer” Filipino jelly fish. I also had lunch on top of one of the Chocolate Hills , one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It was amazingly beautiful and really took my breath away. I stopped counting hills after I reached 100.

I would like to tell you about Joan Villarin Li. She resides at the orphanage on McArthur Blvd., in Cebu City. Her father is Chinese and her mother is Filipino.

I must clarify one thing: Joan does have parents. Unfortunately her parents were separated before she was born. I met Joan during the filming of this project and have developed a very specialfriendship with her which I will treasure for the rest of my life.

Joan was chosen out of 500 orphans to play the part of one of the 109 Chinese little girls in the film. I have been keeping in touch with her since my departure from the Philippines.

It makes me very happy to hear her calling me “Tita Linda.” We had been corresponding with each other for nearly two years now and I have been sending her books, toys and other useful items simply because I adore her. Only this month, I received a letter and a very recent photo from her. Joan has grown quite a bit and she told me that she is doing better and missed me very much. A few weeks ago, I mailed her a package with a Barbie doll set (her favorite) along with other toys and clothes for her young cousin Carlos Villarin. She is a very special little girl and I miss her dearly.

There was much controversy that surrounded the film after it was done.The producer was arrested for illegal use of military firearms, and I felt really bad about it. Manny (The Philippines producer) was really good to me. I was very shocked to hear the news about his arrest and I really hope they will resolve the issue peacefully.

Given everything that I went through during filming (hot weather, storms, etc), would I do it again?

Most definitely, yes!

And I would love to suggest to all the readers out there to consider Cebu, Philippines as their next vacation destination.